The most difficult part of this project (for me) was making the cutouts in the cabinet.  The cabinet bottom is made of aluminum, and the top is steel. 

The Fuji controller requires a cutout 45 mm square, with little room for error.  The wall socket requires a much larger cutout, but the decorator cover will "cover up" a less than beautiful cutout.  My first attempt at the wall socket cutout was fairly precise, but then I discovered that the bare aluminum would be extremely close to the exposed electrical screws.  Thus, I routed it out to give plenty of clearance for safety.  The hole for the Fuji is a little off center to give room for the solid-state relay on the right side, and the smaller DPDT (not shown) relay on the left.  I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut out the holes, and then used a high-speed steel cutter to route out the openings as required.  I understand that Radio Shack has a nibbler tool (Cat #910-3706, $9.99) that might make this a neat and nifty job.

The solid-state relay is shown screwed to the aluminum base to act as a heat sink.  This is necessary in order to obtain its 25 amp capacity rating.  A large grommet is used at the rear left to protect the power cord from the sharp aluminum edges.

The above picture shows the installation of power cord and the wall socket.  For strain relief on the power cord, I used some heavy gauge wire, but if I was to do it again, I found 1/2" nylon cable clamps at HQ.  Before mounting the socket, I broke off the tab that interconnects the two hot sides of the outlets (in this picture, the upper side).  Hence, the two outlets can be wired such that one is always hot, and the other switched by the controller.  You will probably want to make the right hand socket the switched one, because the kiln power cord may block the right socket if it is plugged into the left one. I didn't do this, and discovered the problem after everything was assembled.  The black wire is hot, the white wire is neutral, and the green wire is ground.  The two wires from the solid-state relay to the outlet (with blue crimpable connectors) are 14 gauge solid copper.  One wire goes between the always hot socket and the relay, while the other goes from the relay to the switched outlet.

Well, it might seem that there was a big jump between this picture and the previous one.  Not really, at least in time.  The red wires are 18 ga stranded hookup wire from Radio Shack.  I used an assortment of crimpable connectors here.

The thimble shaped one was useful to make the necessary "Y" connections where three or more wires came together.  Six push on connectors are used to wire the DPDT relay on the left side of the cabinet.  The only soldering required was to wire the two push button switches.

The Fuji is held in place in the front panel by the white square collar that slides up from its rear and locks in place with the grooves seen molded into the top of the Fuji body.  There is a small neoprene gasket between the Fuji and the front of the panel.

The Fuji's socket accepts the eight connections to the controller with screw terminals; crimpable connectors are not required here.  The socket then plugs into the back of the Fuji.

The DPDT relay is held down to the cabinet floor with a square of double sided tape.

The thermocouple wire enters the cabinet through a small grommet in the cabinet cover, and connects to two of the screws on the socket.

The assembly of the cover, and the decorator outlet cover is seen below.  I had to remove a little of the corner of the outlet cover to clear the grommet and the power cord.

The last step was to screw on the rubber feet in the predrilled holes in the cabinet floor.

The first power-on test was performed without the Kiln plugged in.  A push of the red button, and the unit comes on in a few seconds, and begins displaying room temperature.  A push of the black button, and the unit shuts off.